Incredible India part 1 … Rajasthan, India

I feel that I have been away from home for an eternity. So much has happened, both good and bad, I’ve made so many new friends and I’ve covered a huge distance…The reality is that I have been away for 3 weeks.

10 THINGS IVE LEARNT IN THE LAST 3 WEEKS…

1. I don’t like my own company quite as much as I thought I did. I’ve always been independent and thought that solo travel would be easier for someone like me. Turns out I’m a bit needy and I like having someone to talk to!
2. Silk sleeping bag liners are not a luxury, they are a necessity. How did I survive without one?! Some of the budget hotel beds are pretty horrific and I’m sure that they don’t always wash the bedding but I don’t care because I slip into my beautiful silky cocoon and nothing can hurt me. One of the few times I didn’t use it I got bitten by bed bugs. Enough said.
3. My hair cannot survive without conditioner. I took minimalist packing to the next level and ditched the conditioner but ended up looking like Bridget Jones after she and Daniel have been in an open top car. Humidity + knots = I have now bought conditioner.
4. Indian people don’t get angry. I have not seen one angry Indian person. Even when everyone drives like maniacs there is no road rage or aggression. The vibe is just totally tolerant and accepting. It’s very refreshing!
5. I’m going to live to 90 according to my Palm Reader in Udaipur. Bad news is that he couldn’t find anything positive to say about my love life however if I wear an opal ring on my middle finger, carry a white hanky in my pocket and do charity on Sunday’s things may improve!
6. People are amazing. It’s easy to be cynical with so many bad things happening in the world but I’ve been pleasantly surprised at the kindness and generosity of people, particularly Indian women. From Namiya the lovely student I was sat next to on my flight out who gave me her phone number in case of emergencies to Mandy my Tour CEO who organised my hotel and checked up on me long after her duties were done and Padma the Army Doctor who befriended me when I was tired and down, waiting in the airport in the middle of the night. #GirlPower
7. I’m not awful at cricket. Despite my severe lack of confidence I did Yorkshire proud I and hit a 6! The opposition were all under the age of 10 but I felt like I was playing in the Ashes!
8. When bad things happen at home there is nothing you can do. I never prepared myself for the possibility that anyone wouldn’t be there when I got back. Losing one of our precious horses, not being able to say goodbye and feeling bereft and helpless was devastating. It was also a reminder of why I’m here. Life is short and often cruel.  #yolo
9. Slums are not what you think. If you are ever in Mumbai then take a tour of the slums. Yes they are smelly, cramped and sprawling but they are also thriving, close knit communities with huge industries, jobs and opportunities where nothing is wasted and no one is looking for pity or charity.
10. I don’t want a tattoo, nose piercing or dreadlock (but I do own several pairs of harem pants now!) A trip to Goa where everyone has smelly hair and is a militant vegan was enough to put me off. I know some of my friends will be disappointed but I will not be returning as Faye from Steps circa 1990s.

I didn’t want to bore everyone with the minutiae of my entire trip (I’ll save that for my journal!) but below is a bit of a summary of the first few weeks:

Day 1 Delhi I didn’t get the full Delhi experience as it was Republic Day and everyone was on holiday so the city was unnaturally quiet. Had a great time visiting temples, tombs, tea shops and clothes shops but found it very polluted and dirty.

Day 2 Agra Had my first train journey which took 5 hours but was pleasantly surprised. Train was very clean and nice and even got breakfast! Visited Agra Fort which was amazing and beautifully preserved.  In the afternoon we went to the Taj Mahal…as did everyone else! It was literally the most people I have ever seen in my life! The crowds ruined it a bit but the Taj itself definitely didn’t disappoint. It is stunning and rather magical.

Day 3-4 Jaipur Stayed at a charming hotel called the Jaipur Inn. Visited the Amber Fort, a huge fort on a hill. Another fascinating historical site that has been painstakingly restored. Afterwards went to the block printers and ended up buying a pair of  silk pyjamas and made to measure silk harem pants! Cannot help myself! Did a brilliant cooking class where we learnt how to make pakoras, roti, Dahl, paneer, mixed veg and jeera rice. Hoping to wow my friends with an Indian night when I get back! Finally did a fabulous balloon ride over Jaipur which was breathtaking. Best bit was Being greeted by curious villagers when we landed.

Day 5 Tordi We drove out to the village of Tordi Sagar to stay in the main house as Guests. Saw their horses which have bizarre curled ears. In the morning we walked around the village and played cricket with the school children.

Day 6-7 Pushkar Saw the sun setting over the holy lake where people get ‘dipped’. Glad I’m not going in, holy or not, it looks pretty filthy. Totally vegetarian and non alcohol zone with lots of hippies. Not really my thing LOL. Got up early And hiked up to the SavitriTemple for sunrise. Literally thought I was going to die. Note to self do not try to march up several hundred steps with a cold. Once recovered i rode a camel to the desert, dressed up in traditional clothes, watched a magic and dancing show and ate traditional food under the stars as I do every Thursday.

Day 8-10 Udaipur one of my favourite places in Rajasthan. Celebrated my 32nd birthday with a palm reading, a visit to the beautiful city palace, a ‘posh’ lunch which included wine and a BLT, a painting class, a sunset cruise , rum and a really hot curry! Visited Animal Aid which was amazing but heartbreaking. The cow hospice was shocking. Cows are holy and cannot be euthanised and some of the states were horrific. On the other hand the rehabilitation of dogs, donkey and all other manor of animal from the streets of Udaipur is nothing short of miraculous. Mixed emotions to say the least.

Day 11 Ahmedabad Nothing much to say. Visited Ghandis Ashram which was a bit underwhelming. Went toa modern mall and had an Indian Burger King which was a bit different! Chicken Whopper made from a reformed chicken patty yum! The chips were good though! Caught the overnight train to Mumbai which was a brilliant experience. Clean sheets and a nice little cubby hole. Slept like a log.

Day 12 Mumbai Slum tour was amazing, as mentioned. Went from the sublime to the rediculous by following it up with afternoon tea at The Taj Hotel. Very decadent and even had a glass of Moet!  Watched the sunset at the Gateway to India and then, very excitingly, had dinner and drinks at Leopolds in Colaba. Am reading Shantaram so was very geeky about it!

Day 13-17 Goa I had this vision of some idyllic tropical paradise and it just didn’t live up to expectations. I found it dirty, overcrowded and charmless, particularly in Calangute. My perception is probably a little skewed as I found out that Archie had had to be put down. I was also sad to be leaving Mandy and all of my new friends from the tour. Had a nice time in Anjuna and ate great food Goa’s Ark and the German Bakery. Went to the carnival in Panjim which was not the same as the Rio Carnival … or even close

Day 18-21 Cochin/Kochi have fallen in love with Kerala already! Have spent a couple of days exploring Fort Cochin and it is gorgeous. It’s very tropical and a much more relaxed than the North but more sophisticated than Goa . Have seen the Chinese fishing nets and st Francis Church and enjoyed escaping from the extreme heat in the cool art cafes like Kashi, Oys and The Farmers cafe. Yesterday I went on a backwaters tour which was really interesting and very relaxing. Today I join my new tour and get ready to sample the Best of Southern India ….